Exploring a Fairytale Landscape of H.C. Andersen's Native Land in Scandinavia

Looking at my reflection, I appear to be wearing oversized shimmering pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Youngsters relax in a stone basin pretending to be mermaids, while adjacent resides a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, next to a tall pile of cushions. It embodies the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), one of the nineteenth-century's highly cherished storytellers. I find myself in Odense, located on Fyn in the south of Denmark, to discover the author's timeless impact in his birthplace 150 years after his passing, and to find a handful of enchanted tales of my own.

The Cultural Center: HC Andersens Hus

HC Andersens Hus is the town's exhibition space honoring the storyteller, featuring his first home. A curator states that in earlier iterations of the museum there was little focus on the author's tales. The writer’s life was examined, but Thumbelina were absent. For visitors who come to this place in search of storytelling magic, it was a little lacking.

The renovation of downtown Odense, rerouting a main thoroughfare, made it possible to reimagine how the local celebrity could be celebrated. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the commission, with the curators’ new approach at the heart of the layout. The remarkable timber-clad museum with interwoven curving spaces opened to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to design an environment where we avoid discussing the author, but we talk like Andersen: with wit, irony and perspective,” notes the expert. The landscape design take this approach: “It’s a garden for wanderers and for giants, it's created to make you feel small,” he explains, a challenge realized by clever planting, manipulating elevation, scale and many winding paths in a surprisingly compact space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned two and a half memoirs and frequently provided conflicting accounts. HC Andersens Hus adopts this philosophy fully; often the opinions of his acquaintances or snippets of written messages are presented to gently question the writer's personal account of incidents. “The writer is the narrator, but his account isn't always accurate,” explains the expert. The result is a engaging whirlwind tour of the author's biography and art, thought processes and best-loved stories. It is stimulating and fun, for grown-ups and children, with a additional basement imaginary world, the fictional village, for the smallest guests.

Visiting the Town

Returning to the real world, the small city of this Danish city is charming, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings colored in bright colours. The Andersen legacy is all around: the road indicators show the writer with his distinctive characteristic hat, brass footprints give a no-cost Andersen walking tour, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Each summer this commitment reaches its height with the yearly Andersen celebration, which marks the author’s legacy through art, movement, theatre and melodies.

During my visit, the week-long event had hundreds of events, most of which were free. During my time in Odense, I encounter colorful performers on stilts, spooky creatures and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I listen to feminist spoken-word pieces and see an amazing nocturnal display featuring athletic artists descending from the municipal structure and dangling from a mechanical arm. Still to come this year are lectures, family art workshops and, broadening the oral history further than the writer, the city’s annual enchantment celebration.

Every excellent enchanted locations require a castle, and this region boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes throughout the region

Pedaling Through History

Similar to most of Denmark, bikes are the perfect means to navigate in Odense and a “bicycle route” curves through the downtown area. From my accommodation, I ride to the complimentary port-side aquatic facility, then out of town for a route around the nearby islet, a compact territory linked by a road to the primary land. Town dwellers picnic here in the evening, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment catching fish, paddleboarding or taking a dip.

Returning to Odense, I eat at a local eatery, where the menu is based on Andersen themes and tales. The verse Denmark, My Native Land is highlighted during my meal, and owner the restaurateur recites passages, translated into English, as he presents each course. Such encounters commonplace in my time in Odense, the island inhabitants love a yarn and it seems that storytelling is continuously available here.

Castle Explorations

Each wonderful enchanted locations deserve a fortress, and this region contains over a hundred manors and estates around the area. Going on excursions from town, I explore the historic fortress, Europe’s finely maintained historic fortress. Although large sections are accessible to the public, the castle is also the family home of Count Michael Ahlefeldt-Laurvig-Bille and his partner, the royal resident. I ponder if she can feel a tiny vegetable through a pile of {mattresses

David Wilson
David Wilson

A travel enthusiast and writer passionate about uncovering hidden gems in Italy's northern regions.